HOW TO CHOOSE RIGHT SUNSCREEN ?

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Dr Vaibhav Shah 

HOW TO CHOOSE RIGHT SUNSCREEN ?

We know how important it is to choose the right Sun Protection Factor (SPF) for our skin. But did you know it’s not just the range of SPF — 4,15, 30, 40 and 50 as written on your sunblock creams and moisturisers — but also the form of SPF that matters when you pick up them up from stores? For example, if you have oily skin, it’s better to opt for sunscreens that are powder or gel-based. And if you have dry skin, use a creamier one. Skin specialist says, “The ideal range of SPF for the Indian skin tone is 15. Ninety three to 97 per cent of the sun’s rays are protected with the range 15. But irrespective of the range, one has to remember to apply sunscreen every 2-3 hours for minimum damage of the facial skin.”

How to determine the correct SPF for your skin

o    Normal skin: Normal skin types are the least problematic. The tissue does not reveal any traces of oil and looks clean, smooth and has a good circulation and a healthy complexion. Opt for a cream-based sunblock. In case of oiliness, dab with a tissue to remove the excess oil.

o    Oily skin: Oily skin is one of the most problematic skin types. The face has spots of facial oil, corresponding to the areas on your cheeks, nose and the forehead. The face usually looks greasy, thick, coarse and shiny and also has large enlarged pores and tends to break into acne. For the oily skin, gel or aqua-based SPF formulations work the best. This has a drying effect and does not make the skin look greasy.

o    Dry skin: Dry skin has a low level of sebum and can be prone to sensitivity. The skin bears a parched look because of the inability to retain moisture. The skin usually feels tight and uncomfortable after washing unless a moisturiser or cream is applied. Lotion or moisturising SPF is the best choice for dry skin. While opting for the right sunblock, one has to keep in mind that a certain thickness is required in the base to protect the skin from sun damage. Thus, always opt for the ones that are thick and not light (matte finish, for instance). The higher the range of the SPF, the more oily the formulation.

Is there anything like too much SPF? 
 dermatologist and skin specialist, says, “SPF is usually determined by the skin type and colour. SPF protects the skin from medical conditions like skin cancer and TPF (Tan Protection Factor) prevents the skin from pigmentation and discolouration. Sunscreen should be chosen according to the skin colour. For example, people with darker skin should ideally opt for lower SPF, while fairer people can go in for sunblocks with higher SPF.”

How and when to apply 
It is advisable to apply a sunscreen at least 15-20 minutes before going outside to allow the drying time on all exposed body areas. Re-apply every 2 hours when exposed to the sun in general, even on cloudy days as 80 per cent of UV rays can penetrate the clouds. When out on a beach, it is advisable to re-apply sunscreen every 15-20 minutes. Wash your face or wipe off the area with a wet tissue before re-applying.

Types of sunscreens to opt for 
There are a variety of sunscreens in the market to choose from. Sunblocks, sunscreens in the form of lotions, creams, sprays, wipes and powders, hypo-allergenic sunscreens, water-proof sunscreens, and gels. Also, there are sunscreens available in cosmetic products like foundations, compact powders, bronzers, and lip balms.


Did you know?

o    Sun exposure can lead to breakouts. It causes a build-up of dead cells which clog pores, and this worsens the acne.

o    A tan can temporarily camouflage the redness of acne and dry out the skin’s surface, but sun exposure will eventually lead to more pimples.

o    Sun exposure damages the hair too. Keep your hair healthy by applying UV-shielding products on your hair.

Dr. Vaibhav Shah

www.vaibhavshahblog.blogspot.com.

COSMETIC SURGERY EDUCATION in India.

Dr Vaibhav Shah 

I can’t tell you how many times that I (and every cosmetic surgeon) hear that question.  I think that the word “facelift” has more meanings to people than any other word in cosmetic surgery.  People ask about a “full facelift”, “half facelift”, “neck lift” and so on.  This can be very confusing to patients and some may forego treatment because of preconceived notions that are not true.

A “facelift” by definition is a procedure called rhytidectomy.  A rhytid is a wrinkle and “ectomy” means to surgically remove, so technically it refers to a surgical procedure with incisions removes skin to tighten wrinkles.  A traditional facelift includes hidden incisions in front of and behind the ear.  The skin is then separated from the underlying tissues and the deep layers are tightened.  Then the skin is pulled in a natural direction and the excess is removed.  Traditionally, the platysma (muscles in the central neck) are also tightened.

A traditional facelift does very little (or nothing) for the central oval of the face (brow, central forehead, eyes, nose and mouth).  It also does very little, if anything for tissues above the nostrils.  So, a “facelift” is more for the jowls and neck, in fact, all about the jowls and neck. Now you know what a facelift really is!

The “wrinkle” in this description (yes, pun intended) is that not all surgeons do the same surgery the same way.  Some surgeons omit the platysma procedure.  Personally I think that is short changing the patient, although very young patients may not need a platysmaplasty.  Also, some surgeons “invent” shortcut facelift procedures where they omit the incision behind the ear.  I am always leery about someone who takes a procedure that is 100 years old and puts his or her name on it, or even worse, a corporate name.  Again, facelift surgery has been around for a century and all the tricks have been attempted and abandoned because a short cut in surgery almost always translates to a short cut in result and longevity.  Some surgeons try to avoid several inches of incision behind the ear and end up doing a procedure that will begin to relapse in several years.  These types of shortcuts always claim easy surgery with fast recovery.  Remember, in cosmetic surgery, you always get what you pay for….not in terms of money, but in terms of recovery.  The cosmetic consumer should always be cautious about any surgery that deviates significantly from the standard of care in technique.  Just because something is new, does not make it better.  Obviously, we do make advancements in materials and techniques, but if and when that happens, it becomes widely adapted and the norm.  Any patient that is looking at a “new” or “miracle” procedure should ask the surgeon to see 20 pictures of patients that had this procedure by same surgeon and the pictures should be 1-2 years after the procedure.  If a surgeon can’t show you that (for any procedure) you better think closely about getting surgery that is different from the way most surgeons do it.  Cosmetic surgery patients often get the short end of the stick from hype delivered by companies, media and surgeons.  If it sounds too good to be true, it is!  If someone invents a new and radical improved facelift procedure, it won’t be in TV ads, it will be front page news.

So, back to the“facelift” definition.  Much of the confusion about the definition of the word comes from a patient’s experience.  A patient may have “rhytidectomy” but also have a brow lift, eyelid surgery, cheek implants, chin implant, laser skin resurfacing, etc.  So when this patient tells someone they had a “facelift” the listener may assume that a facelift includes all that additional surgery.  They would be wrong!  Rremember, a facelift primarily addresses the jowls and neck.  The patient merely had other procedures along with their facelift.  When you get your engine tuned up, it may include a wheel alignment at the same time, but technically, an wheel alignment is not part of a tune up.

The best way to keep this all simple is to divide the face into 4 segments:

• Upper face
• Midface
• Lower face and neck
• Face and neck skin

Each of these regions concerns separate cosmetic procedures to address the aging in that area and the facelift concerns the third item on the list.  Also facelifts come in three sizes; small, medium and large.  It is basically the same procedure in different versions.  Patients in their early 40’s may need a small lift, while patients with more aging need bigger versions of the same operation.

 www.vaibhavshahblog.blogspot.com.

Face your Looks - Attractive Facial Features.

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                                                                               Dr Vaibhav Shah 

Face your Looks - Attractive Facial Features
           It has been proved, that facial symmetry is one of the criteria, by which we perceive attractiveness of a face. But, there are many other factors that make a face attractive. The face is the first thing that catches the attention of a passer by, friend or foe. Read this article to know the different parameters of an attractive face.
          Everyone wants to look attractive. People wear makeup, use beauty creams and so on; just to look good. But there are some facial features that make you look attractive naturally. Wide-set eyes, high cheekbones, a tapering chin and a small nose are considered to make one look attractive. Sharp facial features make one look good. But beauty does not have set parameters. It's a perception that differs from person to person. Here we will try to tell you about the facial features that are widely considered to qualify as 'attractive'.
Elements of a Perfect Face
Perfect Forehead
Eyebrows
Twinkling Eyes
Pointed Nose Tip
High Cheek Bones
Full Lips
Tapering Chin
Flawless Skin
Defined Face Cut
Prominent Dimples
Additional Features in Women
Additional Features in Men
Perfection
Perfect Forehead

Perfect Forehead

There is actually no such thing as a perfect-sized forehead. But, a forehead size should ideally be, at least one-fourth the size of your whole face. Otherwise, as long as your forehead compliments your face on the whole, it is perfect. However, most people consider big foreheads attractive.
Eyebrows

Striking Eyebrows

Eyebrows should be medium-sized, not too long or short. They should have sufficient gap between them, where your nose joins your forehead to form the 'T'. But, they should not be receding either. Scanty eyebrows can steal the beauty of your forehead and eyes. Arched shaped brows will give you a raised and curvy look. Neatly shaped, fairly thick brows look very graceful.
Twinkling Eyes


Eyes are the most prominent feature of the face. They play a major role in forming facial expressions, as it is believed, that the eyes speak what the lips can't. Bright, sparkling, wide eyes (blue, gray or hazel colored) are a remarkable facial feature. Otherwise, black and brown eyes have always been considered beautiful and attractive. Talking about eyes, let's not forget the most important part of it; the lashes. Thick, long and dark lashes, curled upwards, give your eyes that pretty look.
Thick lids add definition to your eyes, making them more intense.

Pointed Nose Tip
           A narrow nose with a pointed tip is very alluring. What makes it more attractive, is not having those prominent wrinkle lines (also known as smile lines), from the sides of your nostrils to the corners of your lips.

High Cheek Bones
          Chubby cheeks may look cute, but they aren't very attractive. High cheek bones have always been a very sexy feature in women. Cheek bones should have a hollow curve, that is in line with your lips, slanting upwards to the start of your ears.

Full Lips
       Lips are a very important facial feature. Full lips look enticing and luscious. A natural pout enhances the look. Your lower lip should be fatter than your upper lip. The outline of your lips should be a straight line and not a smudgy one. A good teeth set and jawline play an important role in the positioning of your lips.

Tapering Chin
        A narrow, tapering chin always looks very charming and attractive. The chin should not be over-sized, nor should it be too small. A medium-sized chin is just perfect. After the jawline, the chin is the final feature that defines your face.

Flawless Skin
       Flawless skin is the key to attractiveness. It gives your face a very neat and supple look. The skin tone
also plays an important role here. Slightly tanned, golden brown skin has always been a big turn on. But otherwise, even if you are on the fairer or darker side, it hardly matters, as long as you have a flawless skin, which is devoid of marks, freckles and pimples.

Defined Face Cut
       If I were to go by majority, then a slightly oval face is what is liked by most people. Yes, round faces with chubby cheeks do look good on certain women, but then, these face types have a certain amount of childishness. Long and thin faces, devoid of any face fat, are usually not among the most-desired of face types.

Prominent Dimples
       Dimples add a lot of beauty to your smile, making it infectious. Some of us may also have a dimple chin (also known as cleft chin). A mild disorder in reality, dimples have turned into a very likable facial feature.
Additional Features in Women
          Beauty spots like moles, when present in the right places, add class to your beautiful face. These beauty marks are sometimes falsely created by people, using everyday cosmetics. The famous symbol of beauty, Marilyn Monroe, had a prominent mole on her face. 'The Monroe Piercing', has become popular as a piercing, that resembles the beauty spot that Monroe had.
Additional Features in Men

Facial features like forehead, eyes, cheeks, nose, and skin would be more or less the same, but the lips would not need that pout. Men would need a stronger, angular, masculine, and a more prominent jawline and chin. They need not have curvy or arch-shaped brows either. Their brows should be thicker, as compared to a woman's. In men, most women prefer clean-shaven or the stubble look. A well-maintained goatee or French beard, is also considered attractive.
Perfection


Perfectly set features make a face attractive
Some Beauty Tips
- If you have a not-so-prominent lip line, use a lip liner to even it out.

For scanty eyebrows, use a brow pencil.

- For scanty lashes, you have fake lashes available in the market.

- No beauty spots? Just have one made with an eyeliner.
- For highlighting the cheek bones, draw slightly dark brown lines from the beginning of your ear, half way to your lips (slanting downwards), and camouflage them with foundation. They won't be visible, however, you'll have defined cheek bones. Use blush to enhance the look.

- Pimples and scars can be concealed, while excess facial hair can be waxed or bleached.

- Foundation will even out your skin tone.

- Wear that beautiful smile, always!
"Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder", they say. But I always feel that looking beautiful is more about feeling beautiful from within. Cherish your beauty.
In our office by Dr. Vaibhav Shah looks after exclusive facial cosmetic surgery which is one of the kind in Mumbai , India. We do not look after whole body contouring & other Plastic Surgery Work. We concentrate only on Facial Beauty.

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Indian Bulbous Tip Nose Rhinoplasty.

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Dr Vaibhav Shah 

Dr Vaibhav Shah 

Management of the Indian nose is a particularly challenging surgery that requires true expertise and experience in ethnic rhinoplasty. Indian rhinoplasty necessitates a true appreciation of the Indian nose so that the final result will look natural on the face. The common theme with these noses is that they appear ethnically inconsistent with the surrounding Indian facial features. In order to create a natural appearing nose on the Indian face, a rhinoplasty surgeon must have a thorough understanding of the ethnic nose with dedicated experience in performing this surgery on a consistent basis.

As I have pointed out in other topics related to ethnic rhinoplasty, the goal with the  rhinoplasty patient is not to create a Caucasian looking nose. Rather, it is to reshape the nose so that certain undesirable features are addressed while preserving other Indian features in an effort to maintain ethnic consistency.

Indian Rhinoplasty Evaluation

The following list includes a variety of features that are commonly seen in the Indian patient seeking rhinoplasty surgery. As you will note, not all Indian rhinoplasty patients exhibit all of these features. In some Indian rhinoplasty candidates several of these features are more prominent than in others. That is precisely why it is so important to evaluate every Indian rhinoplasty patient on an individual basis.

·      Thicker than average skin (particularly above the nasal tip) in combination with softer/weaker than average cartilage

·      Flatter, broader bridge with a low nasal starting point

·      Variable presence of a dorsal hump or bump as seen from the side view

·      Poor tip definition with a more rounded and bulbous tip shape

·      Wide nasal base that includes alar flaring as well as a wide sill with horizontally oriented nostril openings

·      Columella tends to be shorter than average with poor tip projection

  Indian Nose Job Surgery

In a majority of patients, an open rhinoplasty approach is indicated in order to gain adequate exposure and visualization of the nasal framework and soft tissue. In some cases, a closed rhinoplasty approach can be used for rhinoplasty if there is mostly nasal bridge work being done.

Given the various issues noted in the list above, rhinoplasty usually involves one or more of the following maneuvers to achieve the desired outcome.

One of the first things that needs to be addressed when doing rhinoplasty surgery is the relatively thicker nasal skin and soft tissue. In some cases, the thicker skin requires more deliberate contouring of the underlying cartilage in order to reveal more definition and shape to the nose. In other cases, the skin might actually need to be carefully thinned in certain areas in order for the nose to become more defined.

In many nose job procedures, the nasal bridge usually requires reshaping. In some patients, the hump or bump is taken down to provide a straighter profile. In others, the nasal bridge is augmented (lifted) to bring the bridge higher on the face so that it appears more narrow when seen from the frontal view. Still in other noses, the nasal bones are so wide they need to be brought in closer to one another – also to give a more narrowed appearance. In the midst of these procedures, the nasal starting point may also be moved to a higher position.

In a good majority of nose jobs, the nasal tip requires reshaping to address the more rounded, poorly defined contour. Since the underlying cartilage structure is usually weaker than the average nose, this means that cartilage repositioning and grafting is typically necessary in order to achieve even moderate improvement in tip definition. Given the fact that most noses do not have a generous amount of septal cartilage that can be used for grafting, other sources of cartilage might be needed.

This includes possible use of ear cartilage (also known as auricular cartilage) and even rib cartilage in some rare instances.

When considering the nasal base, you have to look at two different issues. The first is whether or not the alar base area is flared. The second is the width of the actual nasal sill region. Alar base flaring refers to how curved the nostril base might be, while sill width simply refers to how wide the nasal sill is between the columella and the outer border of the nostril. In a good number rhinoplasty patients, both areas require narrowing. In some patients, only one or the other has to be reshaped. Regardless of what is being done to narrow the nasal base, it is vital that this area is not overdone during the rhinoplasty surgery. It happens to be one of the most unforgiving areas of the nose when it comes to cosmetic reshaping. Therefore, it is best to approach this area in a conservative manner. It must also be kept in mind that it is normal to have a slightly wide nasal base when you are dealing with an nose. Careful attention should be paid to preserve at least some of this ethnic identity when reshaping the Indian  nasal base. Yes, an excessively flared and wide nasal base is undesirable – but some of this is also what contributes to the beauty of the Indian face.

www.vaibhavshahblog.blogspot.com.

Having a Rhinoplasty if you are of Indian Ethnicity.

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Dr Vaibhav Shah 

Having a Rhinoplasty if you are of Indian Ethnicity

 What do Indian  noses typically look like?

Indian and Pakistani noses vary significantly from person to person so it can be hard to make generalizations about what type of rhinoplasty is appropriate among those of this ethnicity.

Some Indian and Pakistani noses have droopy tips or are under-projecting (don't stick out far enough from the face) and have thick skin. This type of nose would benefit from an increase in projection to better refine its appearance. It may be counter-intuitive, but in order to make the nose look better it is best to make it bigger. The end result is better refinement of the thick nasal skin. Additionally, in many cases thinning of the tissue below the tip skin can be done (de-fatting) to further improve the nasal contours.

On the other end of the spectrum is the nose which has thinner skin but is overprojected  (sticks too far out from the face) and has a hump on the bridge. The goal in this situation is to reduce the overall size of the nose to better balance out its proportions.

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Skin whitening in India.

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Dr Vaibhav Shah 

Dr Vaibhav Shah 

Dr Vaibhav Shah

Skin whitening, skin lightening, and skin bleaching refer to the practice of using chemical substances in an attempt to lighten skin tone or provide an even skin complexion by reducing the melanin concentration in the skin. Several chemicals have been shown to be effective in skin whitening, while some have proven to be toxic or have questionable safety profiles, adding to the controversy surrounding their use and impacts on certain ethnic groups.

Uses

Specific zones of abnormally high pigmentation such as moles and birthmarks may be depigmented to match to the surrounding skin. Conversely, in cases of vitiligo, unaffected skin may be lightened to achieve a more uniform appearance  Long term use of skin whiteners can lead to pigmentation increasing to the joints of the fingers, toes, buttocks and ears^. The skin of the face can become thinned and the area around the eyes can have increased pigmentation causing a 'bleach panda effect'.

2012 sales of skin lightening creams in India alone totaled 258 tons and the global market for skin lighteners is projected to reach US $19.8 billion by 2018 based on sales growth primarily in Asia, Africa and the Middle East.

Combination treatments

Most skin-lightening treatments, which can reduce or block some amount of melanin production, are aimed at inhibiting tyrosinase. Many treatments use a combination of topical lotions or gels containing melanin-inhibiting ingredients along with a sunscreen, and a prescription retinoid. Depending on how the skin responds to these treatments, exfoliants— either in the form of topical cosmetic or chemical peels — and lasers may be used. New development using LED systems are also showing good results.

There are various mechanisms described for achieving this. Inhibiting tyrosinase activity reduces the synthesis of melanin so that as existing skin cells are naturally exfoliated keratinocytes with less melanin are eventually brought to the surface, giving the skin a lighter, more even toned complexion.

Pre-melanin synthesis

Tretinoin

Research has shown that the use of tretinoin (also known as all-trans retinoic acid) can only be somewhat effective in treating skin discolorations.^{[6][11][12][13]} Users of tretinoin have to avoid sunlight, as the skin can tan. Using tretinoin always makes the skin more sensitive to UVA and UVB rays.

During melanin synthesis

Hydroquinone

Main article: Hydroquinone

In medical literature, hydroquinone is considered the primary topical ingredient for inhibiting melanin production. Its components have potent antioxidant abilities. Topical hydroquinone comes in 2% (available in cosmetics) to 4% (or more) concentrations (available from a physician or by prescription), alone or in combination with tretinoin0.05% to 0.1%. Research has shown hydroquinone and tretinoin to prevent sun- or hormone-induced melasma.

Hydroquinone is a strong inhibitor of melanin production, meaning that it prevents dark skin from making the substance responsible for skin color. Hydroquinone does not bleach the skin but lightens it, and can only disrupt the synthesis and production of melanin hyperpigmentation. It has been banned in all European countries (e.g. France) because of fears of a cancer risk.

Some concerns about hydroquinone's safety on skin have been expressed, but the research when it comes to topical application indicates negative reactions are minor or a result of using extremely high concentrations or from other skin-lightening agents such as glucocorticoids or mercury iodine. Any perceived risk is most likely applicable for African women. Hydroquinone has been shown to cause leukemia in mice and other animals. The European Union banned it from cosmetics in 2001, but it shows up in bootleg creams in the developing world. It is sold in the United States as an over-the-counter drug, but with a concentration of hydroquinone not exceeding 2 percent. Because of hydroquinone's action on the skin, it can be an irritant, particularly in higher concentrations of 4% or greater and predictably when combined with tretinoin. Some medications have been created that combine 4% hydroquinone with tretinoin and a form of cortisone. The cortisone is included as an anti-inflammatory. The negative side effect of repeated application of cortisone is countered by the positive effect of the tretinoin so that it does not cause thinning of skin and damage to collagen.^[  Safer alternatives are more expensive but are available.

Arbutin

Some of alternative lighteners are derived from natural sources of hydroquinone. These include Mitracarpus scaber extract, Uva ursi (bearberry) extract, Morus bombycis(mulberry), Morus alba (white mulberry), and Broussonetia papyrifera (paper mulberry). All of these contain arbutin (technically known as hydroquinone-β-D-glucoside), which can inhibit melanin production. Pure forms of arbutin are considered more potent for affecting skin lightening.

Arbutin is derived from the leaves of bearberry, cranberry, mulberry or blueberry shrubs, and also is present in most types of pears. It can have melanin-inhibiting properties.^[23]Arbutin and other plant extracts are considered safe alternatives to commonly used depigmenting agents to make the skin fairer. Medical studies have shown the efficiency of arbutin for skin lightening. There are patents controlling its use for skin lightening. Arbutin actually exists in two isomers, alpha and beta. The alpha isomer offers higher stability over the beta isomer and is the preferred form for skin lightening indications.

Kojic acid

Kojic acid is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice for use in the manufacturing of sake, the Japanese rice wine. Some research shows kojic acid to be effective for inhibiting melanin production. However, kojic acid is an unstable ingredient in cosmetic formulations. Upon exposure to air or sunlight it can turn brown and lose its efficacy. Many cosmetic companies use kojic dipalmitate as an alternative because it is more stable in formulations. However, there is no research showing kojic dipalmitate to be as effective as kojic acid, although it is a good antioxidant. Further, some controversial research has suggested that kojic acid may have carcinogenic properties in large doses. Other further studies show that kojic acid is not carcinogenic, but can cause allergic contact dermatitis and skin irritation.

Azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is a component of grains, such as wheat, rye, and barley. It is applied topically in a cream formulation at a 10-20% concentration. Azelaic acid is used to treat acne, but there also is research showing it to be effective for skin discolorations. Other research also indicates azelaic acid may be an option for inhibiting melanin production.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C and its various forms (ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, etc.) are considered an effective antioxidant for the skin and help to lighten skin.One study found it raises glutathione levels in the body. Another study found that brownish guinea pigs given vitamin C, vitamin E and L-cysteine, simultaneously, led to lighter skin.^[32]

Glutathione

Glutathione is a tripeptide molecule found in mammalian bodies. It is an antioxidant that plays an important role in preventing oxidative damage to the skin. In addition to its many recognized biological functions, glutathione has also been associated with skin lightening ability.

Glutathione is an ingredient in some cosmetics preparations. Glutathione for skin whitening is available in cream, soap, lotion, nasal spray and injectable form. Glutathione that is applied on the skin in the form of lotion is not efficiently absorbed by the skin cells as the thiol group undergoes rapid formation of disulfide.^] When taken orally, glutathione is hydrolyzed by enzymes in the gastrointestinal tract resulting in reduced bioavailability. The level of glutathione increased in smalls amounts temporarily when large oral doses were administered. As a result, the effectiveness of externally administered glutathione is slowed down by its inability to cross cell membranes efficiently and its rapid degradation by enzymes in the gastrointestinal tract. On the contrary, intravenous glutathione delivers very high doses directly into the systemic circulation and is the preferred mode of administering glutathione. However, this method of administrating the antioxidant might flood the cells with glutathione that may cause reductive stress. This might expose people to potential health risks associated with long-term use of high dose of glutathione

Glutathione can be combined with many other agents like vitamin C to increase its absorption, N-acetyl cysteine to boost its level, and other antioxidants like vitamin E. Some oral intake of glutathione could have dangerous effect when combined with other skin whitening agents such as hydroquinone which is a carcinogenic element and monobenzonewhich causes irreversible depigmentation.

Cinnamomum subavenium

Cinnamomum subavenium, a Chinese herb, has been suggested for use as a skin whitening agent. The plant contains substances which inhibit production of tyrosinase, an enzyme which catalyzes the production of melanin. The herb has not been established as either effective or safe but is being researched by Hui-Min Wang and his colleagues at Kaohsiung Medical University in Taiwan where experiments shown that it was effective at causing Zebrafish to lose their stripes.

Post-melanin synthesis

Alpha hydroxy acids

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) — primarily in the form of lactic acid and glycolic acid — are the most researched forms of AHAs because they have a molecular size that allows effective penetration into the top layers of skin. It is generally assumed that in and of themselves AHAs in concentrations of 4% to 15% are not effective for inhibiting melanin production and will not lighten skin discolorations in that manner. It is believed that their benefit is in helping cell turnover rates and removing unhealthy or abnormal layers of superficial skin cells (exfoliation) where hyperpigmented cells can accumulate. However, other research has shown that lactic and glycolic acids can indeed inhibit melanin production separate from their actions as an exfoliant on skin. Alpha hydroxy acid peels (using 50% concentrations or greater) may remove skin discolorations. Only a qualified physician should perform these types of facial peels.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is claimed to be a much safer alternative when applied topically for skin or genitalia whitening. According to research by Procter & Gamble, a cosmetics company, niacinamide has no adverse side-effects. It also promotes acne reduction, increases skin moisture, and reduces fine wrinkles.^[44]

Other/ungrouped

Most commonly, depigmentation of the skin is linked to people born with vitiligo, which produces differing areas of light and dark skin. These individuals, if they so decided to use a lightening process to even out their skin tone, could apply a topical cream containing the organic compound monobenzone to lessen the remaining pigment. Monobenzone may cause destruction of melanocytes and permanent depigmentation. An alternate method of lightening is to use the chemical mequinol over an extended period of time. Increasingly, people who are not afflicted with the vitiligo experiment with lower concentrations of monobenzone creams in the hope of lightening their skin tone evenly. However, monobenzone is not recommended for skin conditions other than vitiligo.

Mercury

Many skin whiteners contain toxic mercury such as mercury(II) chloride or ammoniated mercury as the active ingredient. However mercury has been banned in most countries for use in skin whitening (1976 in Europe, 1990 in the USA) because it accumulates on skin and it can have the opposite results in the long term. As late as January 2016, the FDA published a warning not to use a particular brand of whitener sold in the United States due to its mercury content.^[45] Some studies suggest that long-term use could cause systemic absorption that leads to tissue accumulation of the substance.

Other

Other options with some amount of research regarding their potential skin lightening abilities are licorice extract (specifically glabridin).^{[citation needed]}

There is also a small amount of research showing oral supplements of pomegranate extract, ellagic acid, vitamin E, and ferulic acid can inhibit melanin production.

Laser treatments

Both ablative and nonablative lasers can have a profound effect on melasma^{[citation needed]}. However, the results are not always consistent, and problems have been reported (such as hypo- or hyperpigmentation). Laser treatments of this kind are more likely to result in problems for those with darker skin tones.^[48]

Cryosurgery

Another alternative to laser treatment is cryosurgery using liquid nitrogen. Controlled destruction of skin cells causes the skin to naturally regenerate itself. Excess melanin comes to the surface and peels off in a few days. This is particularly useful in sensitive areas like the genitals where laser treatment could leave a scar. Efficacy of the treatment depends on the depth of the pigment. Freckles in any part of the body can be treated the same way.

Controversy and negative health effects

There is evidence to suggest that some types of skin-whitening products use active ingredients (such as mercurous chloride) and hydroquinone which can be harmful.Hydroquinone had been banned in Europe. However, it is now available again but only when prescribed by a medical doctor. This is also the case in many other countries, where hydroquinone can only be prescribed by a doctor for certain skin conditions.

A test of common skin lightening creams available in Nigeria showed that they caused mutations in bacteria and were possibly carcinogenic.

DR. VAIBHAV SHAH

www.vaibhavshahblog.blogspot.com